Breadcrust
Fly of the Month
Caddis flies are more predominant in many of our North Carolina Trout Streams than Mayflies or stoneflies. Unlike the mayfly or stonefly, the caddis flies undergo a complete metamorphosis. I know, it is a big word and what has it dot to do with fly fishing, uh? Rather caddis flies undergo a complete body change from larva, to pupa, to adult. Mayflies and stoneflies do not as their body changes from nymph to adult or what is termed incomplete metamorphosis. Well, so much for science and background.
When we do see rising trout and suspect that we have a caddis hatch, often we correctly select an Elk Hair caddis or some other dry fly that imitates the caddis fly. Between you and me, it may not have mattered which dry fly caddis imitation we selected. As most North Carolina freestone streams have trout that are opportunistic, we have success with the dry fly and pat ourselves on the back for the great selection we made.
Have you had a time when the dry fly did not work and the rising fish seemed to be going after the caddis? Well, this may have been one of those times when the caddis flies are emerging and the trout are taking the caddis pupae as they emerge. Okay, to be fully prepared for trout taking caddis flies one needs one or more adult dry fly imitation of various colors also. Caddis flutter on the water, they lay still on the water, they lay eggs on the water, they even dive and release eggs underwater. Caddis pupae are found in the water column and subsurface as they emerge. Again, one needs one or more pupae imitations of various colors also.
These various opportunities for trout to take caddis flies leave the angler scrambling for a big enough arsenal. However, there is the additional Caddis Larvae stage that is found on the bottom, on rocks and even drifting down the stream. Caddis larva builds nets, build home of rocks and wood and even simply move along and grab prey without any structure surrounding them. Again, one needs one or more larvae imitations of various designs and colors also.
So after presenting a lifetime of problem solving the imitations of caddis flies, let’s narrow the list down to a specific fly pattern that imitates caddis larvae. This fly pattern has been around since World War II and has proven its value as a ”nymph” that imitates free-living caddis larva. It is the Breadcrust or sometimes actually called the Breadcrust [Nymph] as it may also imitate some reddish-brown mayfly and stonefly nymphs as well.
Breadcrust [Nymph]
As the dog days of summer are here, our fly fishing opportunities change drastically toward terrestrials. However, nymphing for trout continues to be productive especially where free-living caddis larvae is abundant. So, keep in mind that not only is there adult caddis and emerging pupa caddis around when there is a hatch, there is always caddis larva as well.
The Breadcrust [Nymph] originated in northeastern Pennsylvania in the Pocono Mountains by Rudy Sentiwany. He is credited with inventing the original fly pattern in the early-1940s. The fly pattern was intended to imitate both a cased and a free-living caddis larva.
Ed Rolka, fly tyer in that area tied his first Breadcrust at the age of thirteen and later tied it commercially. He made “THE fly back East” says Ed Rolka, popular by making the Breadcrust available to fly shops all over the country. In 1970, Ed Rolka moved to Denver due to a job transfer. Soon after, Bill Logan, outdoor editor of the Rocky Mountain News wrote a column on the Breadcrust [Nymph]. After the article, and success on such streams as Roaring Fork River and Frying Pan River using the Breadcrust, word spread and fly shops all over the Rockies were selling out soon after each delivery.
The key to tying this creative fly pattern is in the preparation of the quills used for the body of the fly. The quill of a red-phased ruffed grouse tail feather is used. Some shops actually carry the quills already prepared. When tying a body with a quill, be sure to soak the quill in water prior to wrapping the quill around the hook shank.
Fly of the Month 9.14
Breadcrust
Hook: Tiemco 5262, size 10,12,14,16,18
Thread: Danville 6/0 black
Abdomen: Underbody black thread, red tail feathers
Thorax: same as above
Hackle: Grizzly hen
Note: The original recipe calls for ruffed grouse tail feathers in the red phase and these are virtually impossible to find. Substitute the red tail feather from a Hungarian partridge. Substitutions are completely legitimate in tying. Either more modern materials, which can be improvements or some old materials that are not available or not responsible caretaking to use, are very appropriate.
Directions:
- Tom Adams, Alen Baker
Caddis flies are more predominant in many of our North Carolina Trout Streams than Mayflies or stoneflies. Unlike the mayfly or stonefly, the caddis flies undergo a complete metamorphosis. I know, it is a big word and what has it dot to do with fly fishing, uh? Rather caddis flies undergo a complete body change from larva, to pupa, to adult. Mayflies and stoneflies do not as their body changes from nymph to adult or what is termed incomplete metamorphosis. Well, so much for science and background.
When we do see rising trout and suspect that we have a caddis hatch, often we correctly select an Elk Hair caddis or some other dry fly that imitates the caddis fly. Between you and me, it may not have mattered which dry fly caddis imitation we selected. As most North Carolina freestone streams have trout that are opportunistic, we have success with the dry fly and pat ourselves on the back for the great selection we made.
Have you had a time when the dry fly did not work and the rising fish seemed to be going after the caddis? Well, this may have been one of those times when the caddis flies are emerging and the trout are taking the caddis pupae as they emerge. Okay, to be fully prepared for trout taking caddis flies one needs one or more adult dry fly imitation of various colors also. Caddis flutter on the water, they lay still on the water, they lay eggs on the water, they even dive and release eggs underwater. Caddis pupae are found in the water column and subsurface as they emerge. Again, one needs one or more pupae imitations of various colors also.
These various opportunities for trout to take caddis flies leave the angler scrambling for a big enough arsenal. However, there is the additional Caddis Larvae stage that is found on the bottom, on rocks and even drifting down the stream. Caddis larva builds nets, build home of rocks and wood and even simply move along and grab prey without any structure surrounding them. Again, one needs one or more larvae imitations of various designs and colors also.
So after presenting a lifetime of problem solving the imitations of caddis flies, let’s narrow the list down to a specific fly pattern that imitates caddis larvae. This fly pattern has been around since World War II and has proven its value as a ”nymph” that imitates free-living caddis larva. It is the Breadcrust or sometimes actually called the Breadcrust [Nymph] as it may also imitate some reddish-brown mayfly and stonefly nymphs as well.
Breadcrust [Nymph]
As the dog days of summer are here, our fly fishing opportunities change drastically toward terrestrials. However, nymphing for trout continues to be productive especially where free-living caddis larvae is abundant. So, keep in mind that not only is there adult caddis and emerging pupa caddis around when there is a hatch, there is always caddis larva as well.
The Breadcrust [Nymph] originated in northeastern Pennsylvania in the Pocono Mountains by Rudy Sentiwany. He is credited with inventing the original fly pattern in the early-1940s. The fly pattern was intended to imitate both a cased and a free-living caddis larva.
Ed Rolka, fly tyer in that area tied his first Breadcrust at the age of thirteen and later tied it commercially. He made “THE fly back East” says Ed Rolka, popular by making the Breadcrust available to fly shops all over the country. In 1970, Ed Rolka moved to Denver due to a job transfer. Soon after, Bill Logan, outdoor editor of the Rocky Mountain News wrote a column on the Breadcrust [Nymph]. After the article, and success on such streams as Roaring Fork River and Frying Pan River using the Breadcrust, word spread and fly shops all over the Rockies were selling out soon after each delivery.
The key to tying this creative fly pattern is in the preparation of the quills used for the body of the fly. The quill of a red-phased ruffed grouse tail feather is used. Some shops actually carry the quills already prepared. When tying a body with a quill, be sure to soak the quill in water prior to wrapping the quill around the hook shank.
Fly of the Month 9.14
Breadcrust
Hook: Tiemco 5262, size 10,12,14,16,18
Thread: Danville 6/0 black
Abdomen: Underbody black thread, red tail feathers
Thorax: same as above
Hackle: Grizzly hen
Note: The original recipe calls for ruffed grouse tail feathers in the red phase and these are virtually impossible to find. Substitute the red tail feather from a Hungarian partridge. Substitutions are completely legitimate in tying. Either more modern materials, which can be improvements or some old materials that are not available or not responsible caretaking to use, are very appropriate.
Directions:
- Begin selecting a red tail feather. Hold the tip and stroke the barbs making them extend at a right angle from the stem. Trim the length of the barbs to about one sixteenth for both side. Cut straight as possible. Soak the stem in water as you do the next step. The longer it soaks the better.
- Mount the hook and begin with tight touching and then overlapping turns advancing from above the hook barb to the two thirds mark. Continue making wraps to form the caddis cigar shaped body. Once the shape is complete let the bobbin hang at the hook barb.
- Don’t panic, this is not as hard as it sounds. Remove the red tail stem from the water and using a razor blade split away the inside of the stem. That is, the dull side of feather barbs. Begin by gently aligning the razor with the stem, inserting with light pressure and push the barb into the blade. The idea is to remove the white pulpy material from inside the stem to make it flexible enough to wind on to the hook. Split the stem down to a reasonable length of stem. Soak again for as long as possible. Do this step for as many as you are planning to tie at the time. After this process the tie is simple and quick.
- Tie in the red tail feather, advance the bobbin to the two thirds mark and let the bobbin hang.
- Wrap the red tail feather to form the abdomen and thorax. While it is not touching turns it should still cover the black thread base. Tie off and trim at the two thirds mark
- Select a hen grizzly feather and tie in by the tip as a soft hackle. To tie in, hold the end of the tip with one hand and stroke the feathers back, away from the tip, starting with the length you want to begin with. Cut the remaining tip to form a small triangle to aid in holding.
- Wrap the hen grizzly one or two wraps, stroking the barbs back as you wrap.
- Tie off, cut the waste and form a nice head by whip finishing, apply head cement.
- Tom Adams, Alen Baker
Breadcrust
The original recipe calls for ruffed grouse tail feathers in the red phase and these are virtually impossible to find. Substitute the red tail feather from a Hungarian partridge. Substitutions are completely legitimate in tying. Either more modern materials, which can be improvements or some old materials that are not available or not responsible caretaking to use, are very appropriate.
HOOK : Tiemco 5262, size 10,12,14,16,18
THREAD : Danville 6/0 black
Abdomen : Underbody black thread, red tail feathers
Thorax : same as above
Hackle : Grizzly hen
The original recipe calls for ruffed grouse tail feathers in the red phase and these are virtually impossible to find. Substitute the red tail feather from a Hungarian partridge. Substitutions are completely legitimate in tying. Either more modern materials, which can be improvements or some old materials that are not available or not responsible caretaking to use, are very appropriate.
HOOK : Tiemco 5262, size 10,12,14,16,18
THREAD : Danville 6/0 black
Abdomen : Underbody black thread, red tail feathers
Thorax : same as above
Hackle : Grizzly hen
- Begin selecting a red tail feather. Hold the tip and stroke the barbs making them extend at a right angle from the stem. Trim the length of the barbs to about one sixteenth for both side. Cut straight as possible. Soak the stem in water as you do the next step. The longer it soaks the better.
- Mount the hook and begin with tight touching and then overlapping turns advancing from above the hook barb to the two thirds mark. Continue making wraps to form the caddis cigar shaped body. Once the shape is complete let the bobbin hang at the hook barb.
- Don’t panic, this is not as hard as it sounds. Remove the red tail stem from the water and using a razor blade split away the inside of the stem. That is, the dull side of feather barbs. Begin by gently aligning the razor with the stem, inserting with light pressure and push the barb into the blade. The idea is to remove the white pulpy material from inside the stem to make it flexible enough to wind on to the hook. Split the stem down to a reasonable length of stem. Soak again for as long as possible. Do this step for as many as you are planning to tie at the time. After this process the tie is simple and quick.
- Tie in the red tail feather, advance the bobbin to the two thirds mark and let the bobbin hang
- Wrap the red tail feather to form the abdomen and thorax. While it is not touching turns it should still cover the black thread base. Tie off and trim at the two thirds mark
- Select a hen grizzly feather and tie in by the tip as a soft hackle. To tie in, hold the end of the tip with one hand and stroke the feathers back, away from the tip, starting with the length you want to begin with. Cut the remaining tip to form a small triangle to aid in holding.
- Wrap the hen grizzly one or two wraps, stroking the barbs back as you wrap.
- Tie off, cut the waste and form a nice head by whip finishing, apply head cement.