Fly Fishing Basics
Fly fishing is different from other kinds of fishing in several ways. Basically, the weight of the line is the momentum to the cast, not the bait or
lure. A tiny fly is extremely light, but it is possible to present a tiny fly to a fish many feet away by casting a fly line. Fly Fishing, Fly Tying and Rod Building are all shared skills within our membership. Man has learned many ways to pursue and catch trout and other gamefish. For a fly fisher, fly fishing makes the sport more personal, more intimate and more satisfying. A fly fisher often learns to create his or her own flies and even build their own fly rods. There is nothing like landing a beautiful trout. Using your own fly creations that replicates nature or even equipment that you personally built can bring further enjoyment as well. Having built a fly rod from a graphite blank, mastering a full rod build using split cane or simply making a well researched purchase of a fly rod, casting a fly line gives a unique and relaxing feeling of fulfillment to fishing. We would like to believe that the days spent on the stream will add years to anyone’s life.
Here are some of the fundamental that will allow you to enjoy catching fish. Do not get frustrated if you fail to catch fish your first time out; some times it takes a few trips to the trout stream before you catch your first fish. Even the highly experienced go without catching fish now and again. There are many websites, books and videos available as resources to help you learn fly fishing as well as fly tying and rod building. Also, the best thing to do is to fish with a friend or fellow Rocky River Trout Unlimited member who knows fly fishing. Have them take you fly fishing on that first outing!
Fly Fishing Basics is organized in a sequence as follows: equipment, gear, tackle, tools, knots, leaders, leader building and tippets, adding weight and an indicator, tandem rigging, fly selection and fly casting. Then on an additional web page, Fly Fishing Basics is continued with identifying your trout, setting-playing-landing-photographing-releasing your trout, finding fish, stealthiness and camoflague, stream etiquette and streamside comfort.
lure. A tiny fly is extremely light, but it is possible to present a tiny fly to a fish many feet away by casting a fly line. Fly Fishing, Fly Tying and Rod Building are all shared skills within our membership. Man has learned many ways to pursue and catch trout and other gamefish. For a fly fisher, fly fishing makes the sport more personal, more intimate and more satisfying. A fly fisher often learns to create his or her own flies and even build their own fly rods. There is nothing like landing a beautiful trout. Using your own fly creations that replicates nature or even equipment that you personally built can bring further enjoyment as well. Having built a fly rod from a graphite blank, mastering a full rod build using split cane or simply making a well researched purchase of a fly rod, casting a fly line gives a unique and relaxing feeling of fulfillment to fishing. We would like to believe that the days spent on the stream will add years to anyone’s life.
Here are some of the fundamental that will allow you to enjoy catching fish. Do not get frustrated if you fail to catch fish your first time out; some times it takes a few trips to the trout stream before you catch your first fish. Even the highly experienced go without catching fish now and again. There are many websites, books and videos available as resources to help you learn fly fishing as well as fly tying and rod building. Also, the best thing to do is to fish with a friend or fellow Rocky River Trout Unlimited member who knows fly fishing. Have them take you fly fishing on that first outing!
Fly Fishing Basics is organized in a sequence as follows: equipment, gear, tackle, tools, knots, leaders, leader building and tippets, adding weight and an indicator, tandem rigging, fly selection and fly casting. Then on an additional web page, Fly Fishing Basics is continued with identifying your trout, setting-playing-landing-photographing-releasing your trout, finding fish, stealthiness and camoflague, stream etiquette and streamside comfort.
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If you have just started fly fishing or have a few years experience, fly fishing can be intimidating. With much to learn and plenty to share, it will take time to master aspects of this lifetime pursuit.
Simply keep in mind the basic concept is to have fun. Equipment Fly Fishing Gear
Fly Fishing Tackle
What you will need for fly fishing for trout in the southern Appalachians and North Carolina mountains (assuming you will only own just one rod for a while) is a 5 weight 8-foot long, medium to medium-fast action graphite fly rod. To match the 5 weight rod mentioned above for example, you will need a 5-weight reel ... with 100 yards of backing capacity. A recommended fly line for beginners is a double-tapered floating line. Tools
Knots, Leader, Knotless, Knotted, Braided & Furled Leaders, Leader Building,
and Tippet ...knotless leaders are the best for the beginner... Adding Weight
and an Indicator Tandem Rigging
Flies and
Selecting a Fly 
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Fly Casting |
The following is a basic list of fly fishing equipment, gear, tackle and tools. All of the items can be found at your local fly shop. It is highly recommended to patronize on your local, full service shop as much as you can. Keep in mind, without experience a mail order has the risk of buying an incorrect set up. At your local shop you can get the advice about local fishing (and maybe a quick casting lesson) and be outfitted correctly for your local fishing area of choice. Do not be shy, ask a lot of questions; the staff at your local fly shop should be highly knowledgeable. Do shop for the best value to you, both locally and online.
There are several local fly shops in Charlotte and even more in Charlotte-Metrolina area. Depending on the direction of your drive to the mountains, there are usually several fly shops along the way. To find a fly shop, click here. Equipment: Includes the vehicle you choose to carry you and your buddies fly fishing, the mechanism you may choose to float on a body of water and the items you choose to use to backpack, camp or lodge near streamside. The most widely used vehicle today is a Sports Utility Vehicle (SUV) but obviously your current auto will get you to the stream. Many anglers wade fish only. However, to access deeper waters, some mechanism for floating is sometimes required. Some anglers use a float tube with kick fins or a one-person pontoon with oars. Canoes, sit-in kayaks and sit-on-top kayaks are used for fishing navigable rivers as well as ponds and lakes. Driftboats and large rafts may be booked with and without a guide. Jon boats and larger power boats with motors are used to get to the fish for large bodies of water. The items needed for backpacking, camping or packing for a fishing trip are whole topics on their own to deal with. ------------------------------ Landing Net: A net helps to keep the fish in the water as you release them. Aluminum nets are lightweight and easy to handle. Choose a size that is going to have room for the size of the fish you plan to catch. Nets with short handles are more adequate for stream fishing. A teardrop shape net will cut through water currents best and are easier to carry attached to the back of your vest. Cotton or nylon nets will not be as abrasive to the mucus coat of the fish, assisting with catch and release. You can attach the net to your vest from a clip, Velcro, or a spring-loaded cable. Note: We strongly encourage Catch-and-Release fishing except under the circumstances that a legal harvest becomes the food as part of the full enjoyment of the great outdoors. Otherwise, let’s keep the resource alive. Waders: Waders are a waterproof boot or waterproof stocking extending from the foot to the waist or chest. Available in neoprene, Gore-Tex or a waterproof nylon composite, waders may be purchased with the boot built in or as a stocking foot requiring separate wading shoes (ankle high boots). For shallow wading hip boot or hip wader that extend to the knee or thigh are preferred by some anglers during the warmer months. Waders and wading shoes have a wide range of styles, materials, and applications. Chest waders are recommended as a first purchase as they are best for year-round use. Wading Staff: Necessary for high water conditions and for those of us that are not sure footed. Fishing Vest: Buy one with large and small pockets for tools and fly boxes, it is possible to fill each one. Fly Box: Traditionally kept in your vest, a fly box will hold your fly selections while you are at the stream. To start out, a dry fly box with 8-16 compartments and a wet fly box with foam liners will be sufficient. Hat: Protects your head and eyes from the sun and adds to the effectiveness of polarized sun glasses. Insect Repellent: You may or may not become accustomed to bugs in your face. Sunblock: More than a few hours of skin exposure to direct sunlight even on a cloudy day is a health risk. Polarized Sun Glasses: A good pair allow you to see through the reflection on the water surface, to more readily spot fish. Camera: Who is going to believe your story without some proof. A waterproof model or in a waterproof bag. ------------------------------ Fly Rod: Fly rods are designated by line-weight,length and flexibility (action). A 3-weight is considered an ultra light and a 12-weight would be an ocean fishing rod. The length of the rod controls its accuracy and casting distance. The fly rod action (rod stiffness-flexibility design) determines the strength (power) necessary for achieving greater casting distances. A 7-foot rod will cast very accurately for a short distance and a 12-foot rod will cast a great distance with less finesse. What you will need for fly fishing for trout in the southern Appalachians and North Carolina mountains (assuming you will only own just one rod for a while) is a 5 weight 8-foot long, medium to medium-fast action graphite fly rod. Then, if you fish remote headwater stream or full canopy, smaller stream frequently, you may consider an additonal 4 weight 7-foot or 7 1/2-foot medium to medium-fast action graphite fly rod for the tigher situations where distance casting is not generally needed. Also, if you fish open, larger rivers where you are more exposed to windy conditions, you may consider an additional 6 weight 9-foot medium-fast to fast action graphite fly rod for larger flies and greater casting distances. A 2-piece rod often feels better and is fine for local or extended driving trips. However a multi-piece is best for backpacking trips and air travel destinations. The number of pieces determines how short the case may be.
Reels: Reels are designated by line-weight and how much backing they will hold. To match the 5 weight rod mentioned above for example, you will need a 5-weight reel with 100 yards of backing capacity. The designation should look like this: WF5F/100yds (WF5F stands for Weight Forward 5-Weight Floating). Most manual fly reels have traditionally been rather simple in terms of mechanical assembly, with a simple click drag system. Newer reels often feature disc drags to make use of lighter leaders and tippets, or to successfully catch fish that draw lengths of line and leader. To avoid corrosion, reels often use aluminum frames and spools, stainless steel components and sealed bearing/drive mechanisms. Metal cast reels are less expensive than machined reels but are often not as strong and durable. Backing: In order to fill up the reel spool and ensure an adequate reserve of line in case of a run by a powerful fish, fly lines are usually attached to a secondary line at the butt section by a backing material usually composed of braided dacron or gelspun monofilaments. Without backing material, fly line wrapped directly around the shaft of an empty spool will retain line coils. These coils will not allow the fly line to lay properly on the surface of the water. Also, by adding backing to the spool, line retrieved for each revolution of the reel will be at a maximum. Fly Line: Fly lines have varying diameters or tapered sections. A fly line may float, sink, or have a floating main section with a sinking tip. Fly lines are constructed of a braided or monofilament core, covered in a solid waterproof plastic case, often of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). With floating fly lines, the PVC case is usually implanted with many tiny air bubbles, Some fly lines are also infused with silicone or other lubricants, adding buoyancy and to decrease wear. A recommended fly line for beginners is a double-tapered floating line. Another good choice would be weight-forward floating line. It is very important to match the line, rod, and reel as parts of a system so you get the best performance for casting, ease of handling, etc. If you buy a beginner’s outfits that have everything, the matched system is always handled for you by the manufacturer. Beginners should consider buying a kit or working with a knowledgable dealer. Braided Loop: Braided Loops go on the end of your fly line so you can attach a leader. Most quality fly lines come with a braided loop attached or have an integrated loop. ------------------------------ Nippers: For cutting tippets, as well as other lines, close to the hook. Your dentist will thank you.
Floatant: Dry flies eventually sink and will need re-coating to float again. Forceps: Forceps are for removing small hooks from the mouths of fish amoung many other tasks they perform while standing in the middle of a stream. Hook Sharpner: A dull hook may cost you a set on that large trout. Pliers: To bend down the barb. Some forceps designs have a barb bending element. Strike Indicators: Strike indicators assist nymph fishing and help you become a better nymph fisherman. They create better visibility of the leader, help you follow the drift of your fly, and aid in observation of those delicate hits that otherwise may be missed. Also, reaction time is improved so that fish are not hooked as deeply, and unharmed, allowing a successful catch and release. Split Shot: Putting tiny or even micro shot onto your leader gets wet flies down to the fish. ------------------------------ Knots: Different knots have different characteristics and serve different purposes. The fly fisher need only know a few good knots to succeed. However, there are times when other useful knots are best. The most popular and highly utilized knot for tying the tippet to the eye of a fly and tying on a dropper is the Improved Clinch Knot. The second most important knot to tie is one that connects the tippet to the leader or serves as the knot to build a knotted leader. Some anglers prefer the Blood Knot and others prefer the Surgeon's Knot. Both perform equally well in terms of strength and function. The primary difference is when you need to tie on the tippet with a fly already on the terminal end of the tippet, the surgeon knot is more challenging to tie as the fly itself must be brought through the small formed loop twice. The one knot that may be used in place of both knots discussed above is the Uni-Knot. When tying on a wet fly, nymph or stream, a Loop Knot may be used to allow the fly to move more freely and erratically anywhere along the small loop while in underwater currents or being striped back. Although the Fly Shop often handles loading up a newly purchased fly reel with the backing and fly fline, there are several knots that are used that are worthwhile to know. A Slip Knot is typically used to anchor the backing to the reel. This allows for maximum tightening of the loop around the reel. A simple Overhand Knot is typically used on the tag to keep the backing from totally slipping and allowing the knot to come loose. The Arbor Knot is typically used to tie the backing to the fly line and is only needed when a reel is spooled with a new or re-spooled different fly line. Many anglers prefer to use a loop on the end of their fly line that allows for switching leaders while on the stream without having to tie a more difficult knot. A loop, regardless how it is placed on the end of the fly line eliminates the need to tie a knot to replace a leader except for the rare occasion that the entire leader and loop is broken off from the fly line. A mono loop for connecting the leader using the loop system is typically connected to the fly line using either a Nail Knot or Needle Knot (a needle is used to embed the mono through the middle of the end portion of the fly line). Since both of these knots are somewhat difficult to tie, many anglers just have the fly shop tie on the loop. Integrated fly line (embedded) end loops and braided loops have greatly reduced the practice of using either of these two knots to tie the leader directly to the fly line. Braided loops may be attached to the end of the fly line with superglue. However, should you lose your entire leader and the loop on the end of the fly line, a nail knot is the recommended means for even a temporary connection of the fly line to the leader. A nail knot or needle knot may used to tie the leaders or another mono loop directly to the end of the fly line. There are a number of websites that provide easy to follow instructions to tie these knots and many more. Visit Animated Knots, Real Knots or Best Fishing Knots to assist you with tying knots. There is also WhatKnot which is a free app for tablets and smartphones that may be downloaded. Leader: A beginner may be overwhelmed with all the apparent skills required to fly fish. However, building a leader is not one of them. Modern tapered leaders and braided leaders to meet almost every fly fishing need are available for purchase at fly shops and online. Knowing your target species of fish, the best length and terminal strength (pound test) for the type of flies to be used is all that is necessary. Or, tell a local fly shop attendant where you are going fishing and they will typically know which leader product you will need.Braided or knotless leaders are the best for the beginner because they are low maintenance. If you use a 9 foot 5X leader for example, you can make it 6X or 7X by adding 2 feet of tippet material. Knotless, Knotted, Braided and Furled Leaders for Fly Fishing Modern knotless tapered leaders and well formulated knotted leaders perform reasonably well when the fly size is matched properly to the tippet size by using the "rule of 4". For example, a size 12 fly is optimally presented on clear, smooth water by using one tippet size less than the fly size divided by 4 which is (12/4-1)X or (3-1)X or 4x. A size 20 fly is optimally presented with a (22/4-1)X or (5-1)X or 6X. For slightly dingy or choppy water use the tippet size based directly on the fly size divided by 4 which for the size 12 fly is 3X and the size 20 fly is 5X. A tippet size even on size larger may be used if fluorocarbon rather than monofilament is used, thus providing more playing strength with less presentation visibility to the fish. Some anglers prefer a leader that lays the fly over for presentation more consistently and more accurately. A braided leader is built from multiple, very small strands of monofilament or fluorocarbon which are platted by a braiding machine at the factory. The strands provide greater strength, stiffness, some flex or stretchiness to the leaders and no memory when spooled compared to an equivalent knotless or well formulated knotted leader. The one drawback in using braided leaders is the potential for water spray when casting and re-casting the fly line. The tiny openings among the strands will carry water droplets that may break free and spray the water surface above the target fish. On very smooth water, this may spook the fish much like a poor lay over of the fly or just a poor cast and poor presentation of the fly. A furled leader is built from multiple, very small strands of monofilament or fluorocarbon which is twisted by a furling machine at the factory. The strength, stiffness to the leader and no memory when spooled is the same as with the braided leader. The one drawback for water spray is the same as well. However, a furled leader has the most flex or stretchiness of all the leader designs and since a furled leaders is built by simply twisting the stands, many, many times some anglers prefer to build their own furled leaders. A Furled Leader Jig is used to lay out the strands in decreasing numbers over the planned length of the lead to provide the taper. An electric drill with a hook is used to twist the entire length of the strands together until the furling is completed. Typically, a furled leader is completed with a loop on the butt end and a tiny metal ring on the tippet end. Leader Building: At some point, most anglers pursue building their own custom leaders. In some cases they simply do not like paying for leaders when bulk spools of monofilament or fluorocarbon are available for building the leaders. The following are examples of proven formulae for a 4X 10-foot knotted leaders that lays over well: #A 10" 20" 20" 20" 12" 18" 22" to 28" .017 .015 .013 .011 .009 .008 .007 The George Harvey formula #B 40" 36" 6" 6" 6" 6 6" 25" .018 .016 .014 .012 .010 .009 .008 .007 The Ritz formula Visit Fly Fisherman to read about George harvey's approach to formualting and building leaders. Tippet: Tippet is light line on the end of you leader 18 – 24 inches long, to which you tie your fly. Recommended is a spool of 3X, spool of 4X, a spool of 5X, a spool of 6X, and a spool of 7X tippet. As a general rule, use a tippet size which is one fourth (1/4) the fly size or one size smaller for the best lay over of the leader from the cast. For example a size 12 fly is best paired with a 3X or 4X tippet. Remember, a fly line is only as strong as its weakest link, which is the tippet section and connecting knot. An angler has a choice of using monofilament or fluorocarbon. Mono is less expensive and more durable. Fluoro is literally invisible in the water, yet more slippery for securing a knot and is easily worn from abrasion. ------------------------------ Adding weight: If you tie your own wet flies, nymphs and streamers, you may tie some without weight and some with weight by wrapping the hook shank with lead-substitute wire. Flies may be tied or purchased without or with a bead head or even with an even heavier tungsten bead head. However, an obvious alternative to a faster or deeper sinking fly is to simply add split-shot or wad of heavy putty. In every case, the more weight involved, the faster-deeper sinking fly then becomes more difficult to manage during casting.
Adding an Indicator: There are a variety of products to choose from. The better products are highly visible, never sink over extended use and are easy to add, easy to move up and down along the leader and easy to remove when no longer needed. ------------------------------ Tandem Rigging: A great indicator for a wet fly or nymph is a high floating dry fly. The dropper tippet may be tied to the eye or the bend of the dry fly. When uncertain which insect to imitate, a tandem rig may also be used with two different dry flies or two different wet flies and/or nymphs. Even combinations of three (3) or more flies may be rigged together to test the waters for a strike. Keep in mind that a tandem rig tends to get tied in a "birds nest" over numerous and not so perfect casts and three (3) or more very quickly become a "birds nest" without great care in casting. It is illegal in some states (and in North Carolina, the Catch & Release waters managed by the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians) to have more than one fly attached to the fly line so be sure to know your regulations for where you fly fish.
------------------------------ Flies: Another attribute of fly fishing is choosing a suitable fly pattern. While the fly was at first invented to imitate flying insects, it has advanced to match the significant diet of trout and other fish species. Imitation flies can be marine larva and pupae; as well as adults, eggs, worms, freshwater shrimp, grasshoppers, crickets, crawfish, mice, frogs, tadpoles, sculpin, leeches, and many more. Most artificial flies for trout range between the sizes #2, which are large, and a size #22, which are very small.
Selecting a Fly Entomology is the study of insects. As a fly fisher we are primarily but not exclusively interested in aquatic insects. Here is a very simplified example of how to pick the right fly to match the insects the trout are most likely feeding on. While the fly was at first invented to imitate flying insects, fly patterns have advanced to match the significant diet of trout and other fish species. Imitation flies can be submerged larva and pupae; as well as adults, eggs, worms, freshwater shrimp, grasshoppers, crickets, crawfish, mice, frogs, tadpoles, sculpin, leeches, and many more. Here you will find adult forms of the four most common types of aquatic insects. Below you will find a sampling of flies that can be used to imitate each of the insects. If you would like to learn more view the information about insects on the Entomology Basics pages. Types of Aquatic Insects May Fly May fly wings stand upright at rest and there are usually a small set of hind wings. Mayfies can have 2 or 3 tails. Caddis Fly Caddis flies have tent-like wings that are covered with fine hairs. They may also have very long antennae. Stone Fly Stoneflies have wings that lie flat on their body when they are at rest. Stoneflies only have 2 tails which are sometimes very short. Midge Midges have no tails. The wings of a midge lie flat on their body like common house flies. Selecting your flies
When you walk into a fly shop for the first time, you are hit with a startling array of flies. Which ones should you pick? The best thing to do is ask what the fish have been "taking" in the local streams. Besides that, you need some staples, flies that work most of the time, anywhere. The selection below is made up of classic patterns, which, when used correctly, will usually catch fish. One of the more important factors is size. Try to match the size of your fly to whatever the fish are feeding on. Most artificial flies range between the sizes #2, which are large, and a size #22, which are very small. Listed below are samples of the flies that are easy to find at the local fly shops as well as simple to tie (click on the photo to enlarge): Dry Flies & Emergers The Dry Fly and Emergers have many different names and forms. Some examples are: Blue Winged Olive, Pale Morning Dun, Sulphur, Pale evening Dun, Light Cahill, Green Drake, Trico Spinner, Black Caddis, Royal Wulff, Little Yellow Stone, Little Green Stone, Grey Midge, (and these are terrestrials) Brown Flying Ant, Inchworm, Jassid, etc. Adams May Fly Elk Hair Caddis Caddis Fly Griffths Gnat Midge Wet Fly A few examples of Wet Flies are Soft Hackles and Classic Wets. Czech Nymph Caddis Fly Green Rock Worm Caddis Fly Nymph Nymphs are perfect for drifting near the bottom of the stream. They come in many forms: Beadheads and Tungheads, Mayflies, Caddis, Stoneflies, Midges, Crustaceans, Eggs & Worms, Damsels, Buzzers, Czechs, Shrimps, Pheasant Tails, Larvae and Pupae. Bead Head Pheasant Tail May Fly Streamer Muddlers and Sculpins, Traditional & Bucktails, Zonkers & Matukas, Buggers, Minnows and Leeches are types of Streamers. Bead Head Wolly Bugger Attractor Mickey Finn Bait Fish Attractor ----------------------------- Fly Casting: Learning to cast a fly line consists of two (2) casting methods - a Back Cast (page 1)to lift the line and load up the momentum as the setup for casting the fly line forward toward your target; and a Forward Cast (page 2) which is directed such that the actual fly at the end of the line-leader-tippet together lands accurately at the desired spot on the water. All too often you may find yourself in a situation where there is little room behind you. A Roll Cast (page 3) allows you to cast and re-cast the fly line in the forward direction only.
Note: Many of the narratives above were provided by the Seth Green Trout Unlimited Chapter, Rochester, NY website. Some of the narratives above are in part from the Federation of Fly Fisher Fly Fishing pamphlet series. |
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Rocky River Chapter of Trout Unlimited - 2014
Rocky River Chapter of Trout Unlimited - 2014