Damselfly Parachute Red

Damselfly Parachute Blue

Fly of the Month 08.15
Dragonfly Dry
 
Fly of the Month

Our fourth article for 2015 is in two parts, the Dragon Fly. Part One will cover the adult stage and Part Two will cover the nymph stage. Most anglers consider dragon flies as warm, still water insects. This is somewhat true but some species are found in cold, still waters and some are found in our marginal temperature Delayed Harvest still waters in North Carolina. Thus, adult dragon fly patterns should be considered for your DH arsenal for the stillwater pools. The hatch process for dragonflies begins at 60 degrees, so imitating an adult is definitely during the seasonally warm days.

Dragon Fly – Part One – Adults

Dragonflies are insects 2-4 inches in size in the order Odonata which consists of Zygoptera, the damselflies and Anisoptera, the dragonflies. The scientific name is derived from the Greek word anisos “uneven” and pteros “wings” because the hindwing is broader than the forewing. The dragonfly has a much thicker extended-body than the damselfly. A number of species have a club-like tail. Many dragonflies have metallic or iridescent colors. Up to 325 million year old fossils have been found of dragonflies that were 750mm in size – their ancestors were huge! Also, many species are nocturnal. The following are North Carolina species:

The Aeshnoidea superfamily consists of Darners, Clubtails, Biddies and Graybacks.

Aeshnidae (Darner family) which are 2 1/2 - 3 ¼ inches in size and dark brown with bluish or greenish markings. The family includes: Aeshna (Darners) which are widely distributed, dark-colored, with bluish markings and found around ponds and swamps; Anax  junius (Common Green Darner or Green Darner) has a light green thorax, bluish abdomen, are common and found around ponds; and, A. longipes (Comet Darner). Other darners include: Basiaeschna janata (Springtime Darner); Boyeria (Darners); Coryphaeschna ingens (Regal Darner); Epiaeschna heros (Swamp Darner); Gomphaeschna antilope (Taper-tailed Darner); G. furcillata (Harlequin Darner); Nasiaeschna pentacantha (Cyrano Darner); and, Triacanthagyna trifida (Phantom Darner)

Gomphidae (Clubtail family) which are 2-3inches in size and dark brown with yellowish or greenish markings are found along stream or shores of large lakes. The family includes: Gomphus (Clubtails). Other clubtails include: Arigomphus (Clubtails); Lanthus vernalis (Southern Pygmy Clubtail); Stylurus (Clubtails); and, Stylogomphus (Least Clubtails)

Cordulegastridae (Biddies family) are not common and found along small wooded streams. The family includes: Cordulegaster (Spiketails)

Corduliidae (Green-eyed Skimmer family) which are 1 1/2 - 2 ¾ inches in size and blackish or metallic, with clear wings and bright green eyes. They are found about swamps and ponds with few along streams. The family includes: Cordulia shurtleffii (American Emerald). The Libelluloidea (Skimmer superfamily)    consists of Libellulidae (Common Skimmer family) which are 1 - 2 ½ inches in size, brightly colored with spots and bands on wings and are found about ponds and swamps. The family includes: Libellula (Skimmers). The Macromiidae (Belted and River Skimmers family) which are 2 1/4 - 2 ¾ inches in size includes: Macromia (River Skimmers) which have blackish with yellow markings on thorax and abdomen with bright green eyes, found along large streams and lakes. Other skimmers include: Didymops (Belted Skimmers) which are brownish with light markings on the thorax, not common, found along boggy pond shores; Didymops transversa (Stream Cruiser); Nannothemis bella (Elfin Skimmer); Orthemis ferruginea (Roseate Skimmer); and, Plathemis lydia (Common Whitetail Skimmer) which are 65-75 mm in size.

Pennants include: Brachymesia gravida (Four-spotted Pennant); Celithemis (Pennants); and,
Macrodiplax balteata (Marl Pennant)

Other Dragonfly species include: Aphylla williamsoni (Two-striped Forceptail); Archilestes grandis (Great Spreadwing); Dromogomphus (Southeastern Spinylegs); Dythemis velox (Swift Setwing); Epitheca (Baskettails); Erpetogomphus designatus (Eastern Ringtail); Erythemis simplicicollis (Eastern Pondhawk); Erythrodiplax (Dragonlets); Hagenius brevistylus (Dragonhunter); Helocordulia (Sundragons); Ischnura (Forktails); Ladona deplanata (Blue Corporal); Macromia (Cruisers); Nehalennia (Sprites); Neurocordulia (Shadowdragons)
Ophiogomphus (Snaketails); Pachydiplax longipennis (Blue Dasher); Pantala (Gliders)
Perithemis tenera (Eastern Amberwing); Progomphus (Sanddragons); Somatochlora (Emeralds)
Sympetrum (Meadowhawks); Tachopteryx thoreyi (Gray Petaltail); Telebasis byersi (Duckweed Firetail); Tanypteryx thoreyi are grayish brown and found along streams in wooded valleys; and,    
Tramea (Saddlebags)

Dragonflies reproduce using indirect insemination and delayed fertilization. A mating pair forms a shape known as a “heart” or “wheel”, the male clasping the female at the back of the head, the female curling her abdomen down to pickup sperm from secondary genitalia at the base of the male’s abdomen. The pair often remains together with the male clasping the female while laying eggs within the tissue of plants in or near water. This behavior lends itself to the potential of tying a mating pair dragon fly pattern.

The most obvious fly pattern color is green and yellow, followed by metallic black, reddish-purple and brown. Care should be taken to use fly patterns with the wings tied abbreviated or short relative to the body. Fly patterns with the wings too long in the flying position may appear to be more realistic but the fly pattern will highly wind resistant and tend to spin your tippet into a tangle in only a few casts.

The dragonfly fly pattern is best utilized at dusk and at dawn. Since most are nocturnal, the natural dragonfly is typically going into hunting mode at dusk, operating in hunting mode during the night and coming out of hunting mode at dawn. While in hunting mode, the dragonfly is flying very close to the water surface looking for other insects to  prey upon. Thus, an ole brown trout or bass that is feeding nocturnally will more than likely hit the dragon fly pattern. A good “spat” presentation may be required. Noise rather than visibility often works in low-light situations.

Flies of the Month 7.15

……photo, recipe and instructions for each…….

- Tom Adams, Alen Baker

Recipe :

Hook : Tiemco 2302 or equivalent, size 8,10,12
Thread : Black 8/0
Abdomen and Tail :  Bucktail in color desired
Thorax : Peacock herl
Legs: Rooster Hackle
Post : Antron

Directions :

1. Debarb and mount the hook in the vise and tie in thread advancing to the one half mark.  Let the bobbin hang.
2. Select bucktail and trim from the hide.  Align the tips and trim the tips to make it even.  Measure the length to about twice the hook shank length and tie in with a soft wrap keeping the hair on top of the hook shank.  Advance the thread in gentle turns to the hook bend (avoiding to much tension that will cause flair) and gather the hair by the tips in your left hand.  Hold firmly and begin open spiral turns of thread from the hook bend to near the tips.  This will begin tightening the hair into the tail shape.  Do not overtighten. Make another set of open spiral turns creating a crosshatch of thread.  Once the thread is back to the hook bend begin to tighten the thread which will cause the bucktail to flair. Trim the hair as desired. Let the bobbin hang.
3. To form the post, select a two inch piece of antron of the appropriate color and tie in on top of the hook shank. Stand the antron with thread wrapsw beginning at the base and wrap up the antron to make a space for the parachute hackle.  Some cement may be applied to the thread wraps to secure the shape and post. Let the bobbin hang.
4. Select two peacock herls and tie in immediately in front of the bucktail and let the bobbin hang.
5. Select a rooster dry hackle feather and strip a quarter inch or so of barbs.  Tie in immediately behind the post with the shiny side up. Advance the bobbin to the eye and let it hang.
6. Gather the peacock herl strands and twist together to form a rope.  Wrap in tight touching turns to form the thorax ending behind the eye.  Secure the herl with thread wraps and advance the thread to immediately behind the post.  Trim the excess herl.
7. Wrap the hackle up using the exposed stem to where you stopped wrapping the thread and being wrapping the hackle in tight touching turns down to the hook shank.  Try to not overlap the hackle wraps to avoid trapping barbs.  Secure the hackle using the thread by making turns above the hackle and around the post.  This is parallel to the shank.  Once secured with three or four wraps, trim the waste hackle. Make three half hitches with your fingers or a whip finish tool. Trim the thread and post.