Early Nelson
Fly of the month 05.11
Early Nelson
This “fly of the month” represents the latest in the Tim Wilhelm/Tom Adams series.
The Early Nelson is a local fly pattern attributed to Cap Weise. Cap was headmaster of the Paterson School for boys just out side of Lenoir. Cap would hike from the school over to Edgemont during the summers when school wasn’t in session and he would fish Wilson Creek.
That’s about all that I can find out about the Early Nelson. But look at that fly. You know how effective the Adams and Thunderhead are in our waters. Image those two flies with a peacock body? I think you got a fly that would turn some heads.
Fly of the Month 05.11 Early Nelson
Hook: Dry Fly, standard length. Tiemco 100 or equivalent, Size: 12, 14, 16
Thread: 8/0 Uni Black
Body: Peacock Herl
Wing: Grizzly tips
Hackle: Grizzly and Brown
Tail: Black Bear or Moose body hair
Directions :
1) Begin thread wraps two or three eyelengths back from eye and wrap tightly about one third of the length. Let the bobbin hang.
2) Select two equal size feather tips that are the same length as the hook shank, allowing enough extra to tie in by. Strip an eight inch or so and tie in on top of the hook shank in the back side of the first third ( the area covered by thread in step one). Bind with three or four firm wraps and using thread wraps in front and behind to raise the tips to upright. Turn several figure eight wraps between the upright tips to separate.
3) Advance the thread to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
4. Collect eight or ten black bear body hairs, trimming close to the skin cleaning the underfur place in stacker. Rap several times until tips area even. Remove the hairs by gently grabbing by the tips. Holding the tips in your left hand, place the length along the top of the hook shank. Take several soft wraps to set the tail in place. The tail should be slightly more than the hook shank. Once you are happy with the length, wrap the tail toward the eye with firm and firmer wraps, keeping the fibers on top of the hook shank. Take the thread back to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
5. Collect two or three good peacock herls. Tie all in by the tips, but not the very tip. Waste the first half inch or so. The tip most secure is to fragile in most instances and will break after several turns. Once the herl is secure, advance the thread to just behind the wings. Now take the lowest section of the herl and clip with hackle pliers. Twist the two herls in a clockwise rotation to form a rope. It is not necessary to twist the full length, just enough for several wraps on the hook shank. I usually twist about half an inch or so, wrap it on and twist again as needed. Advance the herls toward the wing tips stopping to allow space for two or three wraps of hackle behind the tips. Tie off the herl, trim excess and let the bobbin hang.
6) Select two hackle feathers appropriate for the hook size ( about one and one half the hook gap ). One grizzly and one brown. Strip a quarter inch at the base of each feather. Stack the two prepared feathers on top of one another and tie in with two wraps behind the wing tips. The shiny side of the hackle is toward the eye. Finish the tie in in front of the wing tips, trim any extra hackle and tie in firmly leaving the bobbin to hang in front of the wing tips.
7) Wrap the top hackle forward while leaving a space for the second hackle. Make two turns behind the wing tips and two turns in front. Tie in the hackle and trim excess. Let the bobbin hang.
8) Wrap the second hackle forward working the stem in the space between the first wraps. After three wraps in front of the wings tips tie in and trim the excess.
9. Whip finish and apply head cement.
- Tom Adams, Tim Wilhelm
Early Nelson
This “fly of the month” represents the latest in the Tim Wilhelm/Tom Adams series.
The Early Nelson is a local fly pattern attributed to Cap Weise. Cap was headmaster of the Paterson School for boys just out side of Lenoir. Cap would hike from the school over to Edgemont during the summers when school wasn’t in session and he would fish Wilson Creek.
That’s about all that I can find out about the Early Nelson. But look at that fly. You know how effective the Adams and Thunderhead are in our waters. Image those two flies with a peacock body? I think you got a fly that would turn some heads.
Fly of the Month 05.11 Early Nelson
Hook: Dry Fly, standard length. Tiemco 100 or equivalent, Size: 12, 14, 16
Thread: 8/0 Uni Black
Body: Peacock Herl
Wing: Grizzly tips
Hackle: Grizzly and Brown
Tail: Black Bear or Moose body hair
Directions :
1) Begin thread wraps two or three eyelengths back from eye and wrap tightly about one third of the length. Let the bobbin hang.
2) Select two equal size feather tips that are the same length as the hook shank, allowing enough extra to tie in by. Strip an eight inch or so and tie in on top of the hook shank in the back side of the first third ( the area covered by thread in step one). Bind with three or four firm wraps and using thread wraps in front and behind to raise the tips to upright. Turn several figure eight wraps between the upright tips to separate.
3) Advance the thread to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
4. Collect eight or ten black bear body hairs, trimming close to the skin cleaning the underfur place in stacker. Rap several times until tips area even. Remove the hairs by gently grabbing by the tips. Holding the tips in your left hand, place the length along the top of the hook shank. Take several soft wraps to set the tail in place. The tail should be slightly more than the hook shank. Once you are happy with the length, wrap the tail toward the eye with firm and firmer wraps, keeping the fibers on top of the hook shank. Take the thread back to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
5. Collect two or three good peacock herls. Tie all in by the tips, but not the very tip. Waste the first half inch or so. The tip most secure is to fragile in most instances and will break after several turns. Once the herl is secure, advance the thread to just behind the wings. Now take the lowest section of the herl and clip with hackle pliers. Twist the two herls in a clockwise rotation to form a rope. It is not necessary to twist the full length, just enough for several wraps on the hook shank. I usually twist about half an inch or so, wrap it on and twist again as needed. Advance the herls toward the wing tips stopping to allow space for two or three wraps of hackle behind the tips. Tie off the herl, trim excess and let the bobbin hang.
6) Select two hackle feathers appropriate for the hook size ( about one and one half the hook gap ). One grizzly and one brown. Strip a quarter inch at the base of each feather. Stack the two prepared feathers on top of one another and tie in with two wraps behind the wing tips. The shiny side of the hackle is toward the eye. Finish the tie in in front of the wing tips, trim any extra hackle and tie in firmly leaving the bobbin to hang in front of the wing tips.
7) Wrap the top hackle forward while leaving a space for the second hackle. Make two turns behind the wing tips and two turns in front. Tie in the hackle and trim excess. Let the bobbin hang.
8) Wrap the second hackle forward working the stem in the space between the first wraps. After three wraps in front of the wings tips tie in and trim the excess.
9. Whip finish and apply head cement.
- Tom Adams, Tim Wilhelm
Fly of the month 05.11 Early Nelson
This “fly of the month” represents the latest in the Tim Wilhelm/Tom Adams series.
The Early Nelson is a local fly pattern attributed to Cap Weise. Cap was headmaster of the Paterson School for boys just out side of Lenoir. Cap would hike from the school over to Edgemont during the summers when school wasn’t in session and he would fish Wilson Creek.
That’s about all that I can find out about the Early Nelson. But look at that fly. You know how effective the Adams and Thunderhead are in our waters. Image those two flies with a peacock body? I think you got a fly that would turn some heads.
Fly of the Month 05.11 Early Nelson
Hook: Dry Fly, standard length. Tiemco 100 or equivalent, Size: 12, 14, 16
Thread: 8/0 Uni Black
Body: Peacock Herl
Wing: Grizzly tips
Hackle: Grizzly and Brown
Tail: Black Bear or Moose body hair
Directions :
1) Begin thread wraps two or three eyelengths back from eye and wrap tightly about one third of the length. Let the bobbin hang.
2) Select two equal size feather tips that are the same length as the hook shank, allowing enough extra to tie in by. Strip an eight inch or so and tie in on top of the hook shank in the back side of the first third ( the area covered by thread in step one). Bind with three or four firm wraps and using thread wraps in front and behind to raise the tips to upright. Turn several figure eight wraps between the upright tips to separate.
3) Advance the thread to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
4. Collect eight or ten black bear body hairs, trimming close to the skin cleaning the underfur place in stacker. Rap several times until tips area even. Remove the hairs by gently grabbing by the tips. Holding the tips in your left hand, place the length along the top of the hook shank. Take several soft wraps to set the tail in place. The tail should be slightly more than the hook shank. Once you are happy with the length, wrap the tail toward the eye with firm and firmer wraps, keeping the fibers on top of the hook shank. Take the thread back to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
5. Collect two or three good peacock herls. Tie all in by the tips, but not the very tip. Waste the first half inch or so. The tip most secure is to fragile in most instances and will break after several turns. Once the herl is secure, advance the thread to just behind the wings. Now take the lowest section of the herl and clip with hackle pliers. Twist the two herls in a clockwise rotation to form a rope. It is not necessary to twist the full length, just enough for several wraps on the hook shank. I usually twist about half an inch or so, wrap it on and twist again as needed. Advance the herls toward the wing tips stopping to allow space for two or three wraps of hackle behind the tips. Tie off the herl, trim excess and let the bobbin hang.
6) Select two hackle feathers appropriate for the hook size ( about one and one half the hook gap ). One grizzly and one brown. Strip a quarter inch at the base of each feather. Stack the two prepared feathers on top of one another and tie in with two wraps behind the wing tips. The shiny side of the hackle is toward the eye. Finish the tie in in front of the wing tips, trim any extra hackle and tie in firmly leaving the bobbin to hang in front of the wing tips.
7) Wrap the top hackle forward while leaving a space for the second hackle. Make two turns behind the wing tips and two turns in front. Tie in the hackle and trim excess. Let the bobbin hang.
8) Wrap the second hackle forward working the stem in the space between the first wraps. After three wraps in front of the wings tips tie in and trim the excess.
9. Whip finish and apply head cement.
- Tom Adams, Tim Wilhelm
This “fly of the month” represents the latest in the Tim Wilhelm/Tom Adams series.
The Early Nelson is a local fly pattern attributed to Cap Weise. Cap was headmaster of the Paterson School for boys just out side of Lenoir. Cap would hike from the school over to Edgemont during the summers when school wasn’t in session and he would fish Wilson Creek.
That’s about all that I can find out about the Early Nelson. But look at that fly. You know how effective the Adams and Thunderhead are in our waters. Image those two flies with a peacock body? I think you got a fly that would turn some heads.
Fly of the Month 05.11 Early Nelson
Hook: Dry Fly, standard length. Tiemco 100 or equivalent, Size: 12, 14, 16
Thread: 8/0 Uni Black
Body: Peacock Herl
Wing: Grizzly tips
Hackle: Grizzly and Brown
Tail: Black Bear or Moose body hair
Directions :
1) Begin thread wraps two or three eyelengths back from eye and wrap tightly about one third of the length. Let the bobbin hang.
2) Select two equal size feather tips that are the same length as the hook shank, allowing enough extra to tie in by. Strip an eight inch or so and tie in on top of the hook shank in the back side of the first third ( the area covered by thread in step one). Bind with three or four firm wraps and using thread wraps in front and behind to raise the tips to upright. Turn several figure eight wraps between the upright tips to separate.
3) Advance the thread to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
4. Collect eight or ten black bear body hairs, trimming close to the skin cleaning the underfur place in stacker. Rap several times until tips area even. Remove the hairs by gently grabbing by the tips. Holding the tips in your left hand, place the length along the top of the hook shank. Take several soft wraps to set the tail in place. The tail should be slightly more than the hook shank. Once you are happy with the length, wrap the tail toward the eye with firm and firmer wraps, keeping the fibers on top of the hook shank. Take the thread back to above the hook barb and let the bobbin hang.
5. Collect two or three good peacock herls. Tie all in by the tips, but not the very tip. Waste the first half inch or so. The tip most secure is to fragile in most instances and will break after several turns. Once the herl is secure, advance the thread to just behind the wings. Now take the lowest section of the herl and clip with hackle pliers. Twist the two herls in a clockwise rotation to form a rope. It is not necessary to twist the full length, just enough for several wraps on the hook shank. I usually twist about half an inch or so, wrap it on and twist again as needed. Advance the herls toward the wing tips stopping to allow space for two or three wraps of hackle behind the tips. Tie off the herl, trim excess and let the bobbin hang.
6) Select two hackle feathers appropriate for the hook size ( about one and one half the hook gap ). One grizzly and one brown. Strip a quarter inch at the base of each feather. Stack the two prepared feathers on top of one another and tie in with two wraps behind the wing tips. The shiny side of the hackle is toward the eye. Finish the tie in in front of the wing tips, trim any extra hackle and tie in firmly leaving the bobbin to hang in front of the wing tips.
7) Wrap the top hackle forward while leaving a space for the second hackle. Make two turns behind the wing tips and two turns in front. Tie in the hackle and trim excess. Let the bobbin hang.
8) Wrap the second hackle forward working the stem in the space between the first wraps. After three wraps in front of the wings tips tie in and trim the excess.
9. Whip finish and apply head cement.
- Tom Adams, Tim Wilhelm