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    • RRTU Events >
      • Monthly Meetings
      • Streamside Day Trips
      • Alarka Trips
      • Fly Tying Classes >
        • Instructional Tyers
    • Davidson River HEP
    • Conservation >
      • Conservation Partners >
        • NC Camo Coalition
    • Diversity >
      • WOMEN ON THE FLY
      • BSA Merit Badge
    • We welcome your feedback!
    • Become a TU Member
    • Mission and Brief History
  • FORR
  • Programs
    • Trout In The Classroom
    • RiverCourse Fly Fishing Youth Camp
    • Casting Carolinas
    • Wilson Creek Adopt-A-Stream and Stream Watch
    • South Mountain Adopt-A-Park
    • Stone Mountain State Park
  • Resources
    • Fly of the Month Patterns >
      • DRY FLY PATTERNS >
        • Adams Variant
        • Asher
        • Atherton No 5
        • Baigent's Variant
        • Blue Quill
        • BWO
        • BWO Catskill
        • BWO CDC Emerger
        • BWO Sparkle Dun
        • BWO Spinner
        • Carolina Wulff
        • CDC Biot Comparadun
        • CDL Comparadun
        • Coachman Variant
        • Conner's October Caddis
        • Crackleback
        • Dragonfly Dry
        • Dry Pheasant Tail Variant
        • Dun Fly, August Fly,Wasp Fly
        • Early Nelson
        • Egg Laying Caddis
        • Troth Elk Hair Caddis FFI
        • Elk Hair Caddis
        • EZ Caddis
        • Female Adams
        • Fluttering Caddis
        • Ginger Quill
        • Gray Fox Variant
        • Grey Hackle Yellow Dry
        • Griffith's Gnat
        • Hazel Creek
        • Hendrickson
        • H & L Variant
        • Hopper Juan
        • Infallible
        • Japanese Beetle
        • Jassid
        • Jim Charley
        • Klinkhamer
        • Lacewing
        • Light Cahill Catskill
        • Little Green and Little Yellow Stonefly
        • Mr. Rapidan
        • North Carolina Yellow Sally
        • FFI Parachute Adams
        • Parachute Adams
        • Pheasant Tail Dry Fly.Skues
        • Puff Diddy
        • October Caddis
        • Orange Forked Tail
        • Rattler
        • Red Headed Caddis
        • Smoky Mountian Candy
        • Sunkist
        • Trude
        • Rusty Spinner
        • Sulphurs Part 1
        • Sulphur Part 2
        • Yellow Palmer
      • Dry Attractor
      • Midges >
        • Grey Goose Midge Emerger
        • Morgan's Midge
      • Nymphs >
        • Brassie
        • Chironimid
        • Copper John
        • Crossover Nymph
        • Crow Fly
        • Damsel Fly Nymph
        • Deep Sparkle Caddis Pupa
        • Devil's Doorstop
        • Girdle Bug
        • Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear
        • Guinea
        • Hare's Ear Nymph FFI
        • Hot Creek Special
        • Mr. Rapidan
        • Peridgon Nymph
        • BH Prince Nymph FFI
        • BH Prince Nymph
        • Realistic Stonefly
        • Royal Prince
        • Secret Weapon
        • Scud
        • Egan's Tasmanian Devil
        • Tups Indespensible
        • Waterboatman
      • Pupae/Larva
      • Scud >
        • UV Scud
      • Soft Hackles >
        • Center Bead Soft Hackle
        • Grey Hackle Soft hackle
        • Orange Partridge Soft Hackle
      • Terrestrials >
        • Amy's Ant
        • Alen's Cow Killer
        • Cricket
        • Inchworm
        • Jack Cabe Hopper
        • Little River Ant
        • Moth
        • Murray's Flying Beetle
        • Parachute Ant
        • Texas Piss Ant
      • Wet Fly Patterns >
        • Black Gnat
        • Blue Charm FFI
        • Breadcrust
        • Coachman
        • Cock-y-Bundhu
        • Cooper Bug
        • Grizzly King
        • Ibis
        • Parmacheene Belle
        • Orange and Partridge Soft Hackle FFIFFI
        • Red Ass Soft Hackle
        • Tups Indespensible
    • Fly Patterns
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      • RRTU Reference Fly Tying >
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Picture
Hot Creek Special
Fly of the Month 03.13
Hot Creek Special


This “fly of the month” represents the latest in the Alen Baker/Tom Adams series.

This is an unusual story of a child given fly tying tools and scraps for pacification so that a dad may have some time to tie flies. What happens when a young creative mind has a vise, tying tools and scrap materials? A fly pattern is born. Let this be a lesson to our fly fishing dads among us! The following is the story straight from Don Howell’s book  Tying & Fishing Southern Appalachian Trout Flies. The Rocky River Chapter of Trout Unlimited offers special recognition, honor and a thank you to Kevin Howell for given permission to share this wonderful moment in the history of Southern Appalachian fly tying. Kevin Howell is a fellow fly fisherman and the owner of Davidson River Outfitters in Brevard and a significant sponsor of our RRTU chapter.

Hot Creek Special

“As a young boy, my son, Kevin, always enjoyed spending time in my fly tying shop imitating me. To pacify him and to keep him occupied, I set up one of my discarded vises and gave him a set of tying tools. He would often take my trimmings, wrap them around a hook, and sell them to his papa (grandfather). One day while I was tying Zug Bugs, Kevin kept pestering me for materials. I gave him some peacock herl that I trimmed from the Zug Bugs. He took the trimmings and wrapped them on his hook. When he handed me his crude creation, it surprised me how much it resembled a bug. It dawned on me that peacock is used in most of the best-producing flies, its iridescent sheen attracting trout under all conditions. When the pattern was developed, it was late July, and opressively hot. It had not rained in several days. “Dog Days Trout” are difficult to catch, but extremely clear water and bright sunlight makes them even more of a challenge. My favorite late summer fishing spot at the time was South Toe River (Yancy County, NC), an extremely clear, free-stone stream. On our weekly trip to the South Toe, my brother, father, and I would always bet a dollar on the largest trout. I made two dollars a week for several weeks before I revealed the secret fly I was using. Since the fly had been so productive in low, clear water, I deemed it the Hot Creek Special.” - Don Howell

The Hot Creek Special was developed by Don Howell (inspired by Kevin Howell’s childhood creation) to imitate a terrestrial in the eyes of a trout. Slightly weighted, the presentation certainly appears to be a terrestrial as the fly will “kerplunk” the surface and slowly sink. However, I will also offer an ole timer’s view of what this fly may also imitate. To me, the fly also appears to be a “spring lizzard”, with the legs and tail elements placed much like a salamander. My great uncle John Church was an a fly fisherman and sought pansized brookies as often as he had time to fish “Middle Fork” (this is the stream which parallels US 321 in Blowing Rock fully named the Middle Fork of the East Fork of the New River). He often carried a few “spring lizzards” in his old willow creel in case his flies did not produce enough trout to bring home. You can look through as many fly tying recipe books as you can find and I doubt you find that a “spring lizzard” or salamander is included.

  - Alen Baker

Fly of the Month 03.13 Hot Creek Special

Hook:
Dry Fly, 1x long, 1x fine, perfect bend, Tiemco 100 or equivalent, Size: 12, 14, 16, 18
Thread: 8/0 Black Uni
Tail: Olive Hen
Body: Peacock Herl
Legs: Peacock Herl
Wingcase/Back: Turkey Tail
Weight: lead or lead substitute, size .010 or .015

Directions:

1)    Debarb and mount the hook. Wrap .010 or .015 lead in tight, touching turns beginning three eyelengths back from eye and ending just before the point of the hook.

2)    Begin thread one eyelength from the eye and trap the forward edge of the lead with two or three wraps and then using open even turns take the thread to the back of the lead and trap that end with two or three wraps. At this point you may make several more trips back and forth, but do not overdo and do not feel the necessity to completely cover the lead. The front and back of the lead should have some taper at this point. Stop this covering by letting the bobbin hang at the end of the thread. This should be above the barb.

3)    Select six or eight barbs from an olive hen feather by separating with your thumb and index finger the desired quantity and stroking at 90 degrees. After they are standing out, use your thumb and index to pull the bards away from the stem which you are holding with your other hand.

4)    Stack these barbs on top of the hook shank and make one or two soft wraps for position and check the length. The tail should be slightly shorter than the hook shank. Once you are happy with the length finish tying in with firm wraps. Stop the wraps at the point the hackle is tied in at the rear. This will avoid buildup. If there is any waste tail hackle, trim and let the bobbin hang.

5)    Select turkey tail feather and cut a section about 3/16ths for a size fourteen hook. The back should not cover but about half or less of the body once tied down. Note: Turkey should be prepared in advance by spraying with a fixative to prevent fraying or coming apart. Tie in the turkey beginning at the rearmost wrap of the tail. Make sure the turkey stays on top of the hook shank. Advance the thread in tight, firm turns to the edge of the lead near the rear. Trim any excess turkey and let the bobbin hang.

6)    Select three peacock herls and tie in at the rearmost section of the turkey. Make sure to not tie the peacock too close to the tip. It is fragile and will break. Push the herl out of the way along with the turkey tail. Let the bobbin hang.

7)    Select two peacock herls and tie in on top of the hook about one third from the rearmost point. Use an “x” method trapping the herl on top with about a half inch or so on each side. Advance the thread another third and repeat. There should be enough extra to have trimmed the first set of legs to use in the second set. Advance the thread to the eye and let the bobbin hang.

8)    The three strands of herl at the rear are next. This will be the body. One method that works to give the best coverage and build up of herl, is to draw the strands down and together and take your hackle pliers and clamp them at their bases. If you pinch them flat with your fingers the pliers will hold them better. Now, spin the herl with the pliers to form a rope. You will see the barbs start to blend together at the far end of the herl. Do not spin too much as they will break. Generally a half to three quarters of an inch of twist is sufficient. You will need to repeat this as you wrap, so you do not need much. Wrap this herl rope in tight touching turns forward making sure not to trap the legs. Overlapping turns, in the middle, to form a tapered body. Advance this herl rope to one turn in front of the forward legs and tie off and trim the excess.

9)    Bring the turkey forward on top of the herl body and do not trap any legs. Tie the turkey off with thread wraps that overlap so as to not make a thread head.

10)    The extra turkey is trimmed about an eighth of an inch past the eye, leaving a head and mandibles.

11)    Trim the legs to a uniform length on both sides. About one quarter inch.

12)    Gently cement the thread wraps.

 - Tom Adams, Alen Baker

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