FFI Parachute Adams
Fly of the Month 10.23 Parachute Adams
The “fly of the month” series for 2023 will celebrate the Fly Fishers International Fly Tying Group Fly Tying Skills Awards Program. Each month Tom and I will present one of the fly patterns used to evaluate a fly tyer’s skills toward a Bronze Level in the first six months, then one of the fly pattern used to evaluate a fly tyer’s skills toward a Silver Level in the later part of the year. The fourth fly pattern in the Silver Level series is a dry fly parachute fly pattern. The Parachute style has evolved to be tied in various sizes for virtually all aquatic, semi-aquatic and terrestrial insects.
Parachute Adams - Dry Fly
The Parachute Adams is one of the most famous and effective, dry fly patterns known to anglers. Moreover, between its reliability, versatility and ease of visibility on the water, it is an essential fly patterns to keep stocked in the fly box.
A Parachute Adams is a dry fly pattern designed to imitate the adult stage of a wide range of aquatic-born insects such as mayflies, midges, and even caddis and to provide anglers with a high-visibility “parachute” to make the fly easy to see while it floats through the water. The Parachute Adams is a staple fly pattern for just about any freshwater situation.
How To Fish A Parachute Adams
After becoming the proud owner of a few new Parachute Adams, the next most important thing you need to learn is how to fish them. Sure, a tasty-looking fly pattern like this will do a lot of the work for you, but you still need to get the presentation right.
Apply Floatant Often - To maximize the fish-catching potential with a Parachute Adams, then the highest priorities is to keep the fly pattern floating as high and perky as possible. Dry out the fly and reapply a liberal coat of floatant every 20 to 30 minutes and/or after every fish caught. This will not only result in the best possible presentation, but it will keep the fly much more visible on the surface — both of which will help catch more fish.
Trail It Behind An Attractor - Despite its highly visible parachute, a Parachute Adams can still be rather hard to see at times — especially if casting it into a current. The harder it is to see the fly, the more misses on the takes. If struggling to keep track of the fly on the water, trail it behind an attractor fly, like a Caddis or Stimulator. This approach comes with the added bonus of an extra fly in the water.
Cast Gently - As with any mayfly or midge pattern, a gentle presentation is the best approach. Gently lift the majority of the line off the water before starting each cast. This will reduce each cast’s surface disturbance and keep even the most leader-shy trout interested. Try not to slap the water. The goal when casting a Parachute Adams should be to have the fly (or flies) land on the water ahead of the line.
Wait On The Take - Since a Parachute Adams is a mayfly imitation, trout will usually “sip” them off the surface, taking their time, so give the fish a chance to take it under. Hesitate for a split second before setting the hook. When finally pulling the rod back, all it takes is a flick of the wrist.
Parachute Adams versus Traditional Adams
The obvious difference between a Parachute Adams and a traditional Adams is that a Parachute Adams has a highly-visible post sticking straight up from the top of the fly. This makes the pattern easier to see in the water, which can help catch more fish. The traditional Adams is a great fly pattern for situations in where a little more stealth is needed. For instance, when fishing glassy pools, where trout may be leader-shy, and there is less concern about visibility issues, the traditional Adams may be preferred.
The parachute pattern has the hackle wound around a wing post resulting in a hackle that will be parallel to the water surface. This design allows the fly to sit lower in the water yet keeping the wing in a position easier for the fisher to see it in the water. The Adams Parachute is an excellent searching fly. Like most patterns, several variations in color and material selection have occurred over the years.
For the skills award, traditional calf tail fibers are required. However, poly yarn is widely considered to be the best post material for a Parachute Adams. It is extremely buoyant, which will keep the fly sitting on the surface, and it is an easy material to work with when tying a fly.
Tying the fly pattern for the Silver Level Submission
Visit the FFI website and navigate to the Fly Tying Group, then to the Silver Award Handbook pages. The website has excellent instructions as to how to tie and submit the required group of fly patterns to an FFI Silver Award Evaluator. The website includes a video presenting each step to tie the Parachute Adams. The handbook is easy to understand and follow. Tie three flies with consistency for the Silver Awards submission, then tie more for the fly box.
Fly of the Month 10.23
Fly Name: Parachute Adams - Dry Fly
Hook: Standard dry fly, Mustad R50-94840, Tiemco 100
Size: 12, 14
Thread: Gray, Danville 6/0 (70 denier), UNI 8/0, UTC (70 denier)
Tail: Mixed grizzly and brown hackle fibers
Wing Post: White calf tail hair fibers
(post is one hook shank in length. Wing post diameter is determined by putting
a half twist in the wing post fibers and comparing the diameter of the calf tail
selection with the hook eye diameter. When twisted, the cylinder formed by the
calf tail fibers should have the same or slightly larger diameter than the hook eye)
Body: Natural gray muskrat dubbing
(the dubbing should cover the spot under the wing post and should be wrapped in
front of the post up to the just behind the hook eye)
Hackle: Grizzly and brown saddle hackles
(hackles wrapped around the wing post is one hook size larger. This produces a
stabilizing effect to help the fly sit on the water surface without rocking side to
side or tipping over. Hackles are wrapped with shiny side up and dull side down)
Head: Tying thread
Directions:
1) Bend the barb down on the hook and mount the hook in the vise. Attach the thread with a jam knot about a half eye length behind the eye of hook. Wrap a flat thread base over the front half of the hook. Wrap the thread back to the ⅓ shank position and let the thread hang.
2) Select and clean a small bunch of calf tail hair fibers. Double stack the fibers to assure the tips are even. Measure the calf tail fibers for length. Form a wing post one shank length in height. Follow the technique guide-lines for "Parachute Wing Posts of Calf Tail Hair” to determine post diameter. Pre-glue the tie-in spot on the calf tail and mount the calf tail on top of the shank at the ⅓ shank position with the tips forward. Do not cut the waste.
3a) Post the wing by lifting it upright and making several wraps tight up against where the calf tail and shank meet forming a small thread dam in front of the wing. Make few wraps around the post and back behind the post to secure the calf tail in an upright position. A few figure eight wraps around the wing and the butt material should hold the post in an upright position. Wrap back toward the hook bend about 1 eye width behind the tie-in point.
3b) Lift the waste material up into almost vertical position and cut the waste while holding the scissor blades parallel to the shank. This will produce a tapered cut on the waste. Bind the angled waste section down, bring the thread forward and make several wraps up and down the post to stiffen it and provide a section for the hackles to be wrapped. Use your bodkin to apply head cement to the threads covering the calf tail.
4) Select and prepare the hackles. Strip off webby hackle fibers to provide a clean stem for the tie-in zone on the stem. Attach the hackles in front of the wing post with the hackles to the far side. Allow some stem length so you can bind the hackle stems to the wing post as you wrap the tying thread up the post and back down. Be sure to position the hackles so the barbs will have the shiny side up when you wrap the hackle counter-clockwise around the post. Trim the hackle wastes.
5a) Wrap the tying thread back to the tail tie-in position to provide a thread base for the tail and body section. Select a grizzly hackle with stiff fibers for tailing material. Run your fingers down the hackle stem to splay the fibers and strip some from the hackle stem. Place them carefully on a flat surface. It is important to keep the tips even. In a similar manner, select, splay, and strip brown hackle fibers from a brown tail hackle stem.
5b) Place the brown fibers on top of the grizzly fibers making sure the tips are even. Carefully pick up the section and hold between your thumb and index finger. By moving your thumb back and forth while maintaining pressure on the fibers, they will mix producing the tail for the fly. Keep tips aligned during this process. Mount the tail at the tail tie-in position. Tail should point along the same line as the hook shank and be one shank length long. Bind the tail waste down on top of the shank as you wrap the tying thread forward to meet the waste ends of the post.
6) Trim the tail waste. Continue to wrap thread forward to base of post and then back to the tail tie in position. This process should produce a tapered underbody.
7) Select some natural muskrat dubbing and spin it onto the tying thread. Use a sparse amount that gets a little thicker as you spin away from the shank. Wrap the dubbing forward to form a slightly tapered body. Be sure to carry the dubbing far enough forward to cover the shank under the post. Wrap dubbing in front of the wing post almost to the eye of the hook.
8a) Wrap the hackles counter-clockwise around and down the post. You will want the shiny sides of the hackle to be facing up and the dull sides facing down when you wrap the hackles. Be sure there is enough dubbing under the post.
8b) Wrap the hackles one at a time. Make about 3 wraps of the first hackle. While holding the hackle tip pointing towards the far side in front of the post with the right hand, stroke the hackle fibers up and to the back with the left hand. Pinch the wing assembly and hackles together with the left thumb and index finger. Release the hackle tip from the right hand and take the tying thread up and over the hackle stem and shank. Make two wraps, let thread hang, grab hackle stem with right hand and pull to tighten stem against the wing post and hook shank. Make several more wraps of tying thread around the hackle stem.
8c) Trim the hackle stem waste. In a similar way, wrap the other hackle down the post, wiggling it as you work the stem into the other wrapped hackle, tie off the hackle, trim the hackle stem and form the head of the fly. Whip finish, apply head cement, and clean the eye of the hook.
9) A small drop of head cement can be placed into the center of the post and the post fibers can be splayed a little to mimic a wing. View the fly from the top and adjust any hackle fibers to distribute them around evenly around the post.
- Tom Adams, Alen Baker
The “fly of the month” series for 2023 will celebrate the Fly Fishers International Fly Tying Group Fly Tying Skills Awards Program. Each month Tom and I will present one of the fly patterns used to evaluate a fly tyer’s skills toward a Bronze Level in the first six months, then one of the fly pattern used to evaluate a fly tyer’s skills toward a Silver Level in the later part of the year. The fourth fly pattern in the Silver Level series is a dry fly parachute fly pattern. The Parachute style has evolved to be tied in various sizes for virtually all aquatic, semi-aquatic and terrestrial insects.
Parachute Adams - Dry Fly
The Parachute Adams is one of the most famous and effective, dry fly patterns known to anglers. Moreover, between its reliability, versatility and ease of visibility on the water, it is an essential fly patterns to keep stocked in the fly box.
A Parachute Adams is a dry fly pattern designed to imitate the adult stage of a wide range of aquatic-born insects such as mayflies, midges, and even caddis and to provide anglers with a high-visibility “parachute” to make the fly easy to see while it floats through the water. The Parachute Adams is a staple fly pattern for just about any freshwater situation.
How To Fish A Parachute Adams
After becoming the proud owner of a few new Parachute Adams, the next most important thing you need to learn is how to fish them. Sure, a tasty-looking fly pattern like this will do a lot of the work for you, but you still need to get the presentation right.
Apply Floatant Often - To maximize the fish-catching potential with a Parachute Adams, then the highest priorities is to keep the fly pattern floating as high and perky as possible. Dry out the fly and reapply a liberal coat of floatant every 20 to 30 minutes and/or after every fish caught. This will not only result in the best possible presentation, but it will keep the fly much more visible on the surface — both of which will help catch more fish.
Trail It Behind An Attractor - Despite its highly visible parachute, a Parachute Adams can still be rather hard to see at times — especially if casting it into a current. The harder it is to see the fly, the more misses on the takes. If struggling to keep track of the fly on the water, trail it behind an attractor fly, like a Caddis or Stimulator. This approach comes with the added bonus of an extra fly in the water.
Cast Gently - As with any mayfly or midge pattern, a gentle presentation is the best approach. Gently lift the majority of the line off the water before starting each cast. This will reduce each cast’s surface disturbance and keep even the most leader-shy trout interested. Try not to slap the water. The goal when casting a Parachute Adams should be to have the fly (or flies) land on the water ahead of the line.
Wait On The Take - Since a Parachute Adams is a mayfly imitation, trout will usually “sip” them off the surface, taking their time, so give the fish a chance to take it under. Hesitate for a split second before setting the hook. When finally pulling the rod back, all it takes is a flick of the wrist.
Parachute Adams versus Traditional Adams
The obvious difference between a Parachute Adams and a traditional Adams is that a Parachute Adams has a highly-visible post sticking straight up from the top of the fly. This makes the pattern easier to see in the water, which can help catch more fish. The traditional Adams is a great fly pattern for situations in where a little more stealth is needed. For instance, when fishing glassy pools, where trout may be leader-shy, and there is less concern about visibility issues, the traditional Adams may be preferred.
The parachute pattern has the hackle wound around a wing post resulting in a hackle that will be parallel to the water surface. This design allows the fly to sit lower in the water yet keeping the wing in a position easier for the fisher to see it in the water. The Adams Parachute is an excellent searching fly. Like most patterns, several variations in color and material selection have occurred over the years.
For the skills award, traditional calf tail fibers are required. However, poly yarn is widely considered to be the best post material for a Parachute Adams. It is extremely buoyant, which will keep the fly sitting on the surface, and it is an easy material to work with when tying a fly.
Tying the fly pattern for the Silver Level Submission
Visit the FFI website and navigate to the Fly Tying Group, then to the Silver Award Handbook pages. The website has excellent instructions as to how to tie and submit the required group of fly patterns to an FFI Silver Award Evaluator. The website includes a video presenting each step to tie the Parachute Adams. The handbook is easy to understand and follow. Tie three flies with consistency for the Silver Awards submission, then tie more for the fly box.
Fly of the Month 10.23
Fly Name: Parachute Adams - Dry Fly
Hook: Standard dry fly, Mustad R50-94840, Tiemco 100
Size: 12, 14
Thread: Gray, Danville 6/0 (70 denier), UNI 8/0, UTC (70 denier)
Tail: Mixed grizzly and brown hackle fibers
Wing Post: White calf tail hair fibers
(post is one hook shank in length. Wing post diameter is determined by putting
a half twist in the wing post fibers and comparing the diameter of the calf tail
selection with the hook eye diameter. When twisted, the cylinder formed by the
calf tail fibers should have the same or slightly larger diameter than the hook eye)
Body: Natural gray muskrat dubbing
(the dubbing should cover the spot under the wing post and should be wrapped in
front of the post up to the just behind the hook eye)
Hackle: Grizzly and brown saddle hackles
(hackles wrapped around the wing post is one hook size larger. This produces a
stabilizing effect to help the fly sit on the water surface without rocking side to
side or tipping over. Hackles are wrapped with shiny side up and dull side down)
Head: Tying thread
Directions:
1) Bend the barb down on the hook and mount the hook in the vise. Attach the thread with a jam knot about a half eye length behind the eye of hook. Wrap a flat thread base over the front half of the hook. Wrap the thread back to the ⅓ shank position and let the thread hang.
2) Select and clean a small bunch of calf tail hair fibers. Double stack the fibers to assure the tips are even. Measure the calf tail fibers for length. Form a wing post one shank length in height. Follow the technique guide-lines for "Parachute Wing Posts of Calf Tail Hair” to determine post diameter. Pre-glue the tie-in spot on the calf tail and mount the calf tail on top of the shank at the ⅓ shank position with the tips forward. Do not cut the waste.
3a) Post the wing by lifting it upright and making several wraps tight up against where the calf tail and shank meet forming a small thread dam in front of the wing. Make few wraps around the post and back behind the post to secure the calf tail in an upright position. A few figure eight wraps around the wing and the butt material should hold the post in an upright position. Wrap back toward the hook bend about 1 eye width behind the tie-in point.
3b) Lift the waste material up into almost vertical position and cut the waste while holding the scissor blades parallel to the shank. This will produce a tapered cut on the waste. Bind the angled waste section down, bring the thread forward and make several wraps up and down the post to stiffen it and provide a section for the hackles to be wrapped. Use your bodkin to apply head cement to the threads covering the calf tail.
4) Select and prepare the hackles. Strip off webby hackle fibers to provide a clean stem for the tie-in zone on the stem. Attach the hackles in front of the wing post with the hackles to the far side. Allow some stem length so you can bind the hackle stems to the wing post as you wrap the tying thread up the post and back down. Be sure to position the hackles so the barbs will have the shiny side up when you wrap the hackle counter-clockwise around the post. Trim the hackle wastes.
5a) Wrap the tying thread back to the tail tie-in position to provide a thread base for the tail and body section. Select a grizzly hackle with stiff fibers for tailing material. Run your fingers down the hackle stem to splay the fibers and strip some from the hackle stem. Place them carefully on a flat surface. It is important to keep the tips even. In a similar manner, select, splay, and strip brown hackle fibers from a brown tail hackle stem.
5b) Place the brown fibers on top of the grizzly fibers making sure the tips are even. Carefully pick up the section and hold between your thumb and index finger. By moving your thumb back and forth while maintaining pressure on the fibers, they will mix producing the tail for the fly. Keep tips aligned during this process. Mount the tail at the tail tie-in position. Tail should point along the same line as the hook shank and be one shank length long. Bind the tail waste down on top of the shank as you wrap the tying thread forward to meet the waste ends of the post.
6) Trim the tail waste. Continue to wrap thread forward to base of post and then back to the tail tie in position. This process should produce a tapered underbody.
7) Select some natural muskrat dubbing and spin it onto the tying thread. Use a sparse amount that gets a little thicker as you spin away from the shank. Wrap the dubbing forward to form a slightly tapered body. Be sure to carry the dubbing far enough forward to cover the shank under the post. Wrap dubbing in front of the wing post almost to the eye of the hook.
8a) Wrap the hackles counter-clockwise around and down the post. You will want the shiny sides of the hackle to be facing up and the dull sides facing down when you wrap the hackles. Be sure there is enough dubbing under the post.
8b) Wrap the hackles one at a time. Make about 3 wraps of the first hackle. While holding the hackle tip pointing towards the far side in front of the post with the right hand, stroke the hackle fibers up and to the back with the left hand. Pinch the wing assembly and hackles together with the left thumb and index finger. Release the hackle tip from the right hand and take the tying thread up and over the hackle stem and shank. Make two wraps, let thread hang, grab hackle stem with right hand and pull to tighten stem against the wing post and hook shank. Make several more wraps of tying thread around the hackle stem.
8c) Trim the hackle stem waste. In a similar way, wrap the other hackle down the post, wiggling it as you work the stem into the other wrapped hackle, tie off the hackle, trim the hackle stem and form the head of the fly. Whip finish, apply head cement, and clean the eye of the hook.
9) A small drop of head cement can be placed into the center of the post and the post fibers can be splayed a little to mimic a wing. View the fly from the top and adjust any hackle fibers to distribute them around evenly around the post.
- Tom Adams, Alen Baker