Rocky River Trout Unlimited

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    • RRTU Events >
      • Monthly Meetings
      • Streamside Day Trips
      • Alarka Trips
      • Fly Tying Classes >
        • Instructional Tyers
    • Davidson River HEP
    • Conservation >
      • Conservation Partners >
        • NC Camo Coalition
    • Diversity >
      • WOMEN ON THE FLY
      • BSA Merit Badge
    • We welcome your feedback!
    • Become a TU Member
    • Mission and Brief History
  • Calendar
  • FORR
  • Programs
    • Trout In The Classroom
    • RiverCourse Fly Fishing Youth Camp
    • Casting Carolinas
    • Wilson Creek Adopt-A-Stream and Stream Watch
    • South Mountain Adopt-A-Park
    • Stone Mountain State Park
  • Resources
    • Fly of the Month Patterns >
      • Dry Attractor >
        • Stealth Bomber
      • DRY FLY PATTERNS >
        • Adams Variant
        • Asher
        • Baigent's Variant
        • Blue Quill
        • BWO
        • BWO Catskill
        • BWO CDC Emerger
        • BWO Sparkle Dun
        • BWO Spinner
        • Carolina Wulff
        • CDC Biot Comparadun
        • CDL Comparadun
        • Coachman Variant
        • Crackleback
        • Dragonfly Dry
        • Dry Pheasant Tail Variant
        • Dun Fly, August Fly,Wasp Fly
        • Early Nelson
        • Egg Laying Caddis
        • Elk Hair Caddis
        • EZ Caddis
        • Female Adams
        • Fluttering Caddis
        • Gray Fox Variant
        • Griffith's Gnat
        • H & L Variant
        • Hopper Juan
        • Japanese Beetle
        • Jassid
        • Jim Charley
        • Klinkhamer
        • Lacewing
        • Light Cahill Catskill
        • Little Green and Little Yellow Stonefly
        • Mr. Rapidan
        • North Carolina Yellow Sally
        • Parachute Adams
        • Puff Diddy
        • October Caddis
        • Orange Forked Tail
        • Rattler
        • Red Headed Caddis
        • Smoky Mountian Candy
        • Trude
        • Rusty Spinner
        • Sulphurs Part 1
        • Sulphur Part 2
        • Yellow Palmer
      • Midges >
        • Grey Goose Midge Emerger
        • Morgan's Midge
      • Nymphs >
        • Brassie
        • Chironimid
        • Copper John
        • Crossover Nymph
        • Crow Fly
        • Damsel Fly Nymph
        • Deep Sparkle Caddis Pupa
        • Devil's Doorstop
        • Girdle Bug
        • Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear
        • Hot Creek Special
        • Mr. Rapidan
        • Peridgon Nymph
        • Realistic Stonefly
        • Royal Prince
        • Scud
        • Egan's Tasmanian Devil
        • Tups Indespensible
      • Scud >
        • UV Scud
      • Soft Hackles >
        • Center Bead Soft Hackle
        • Orange Partridge Soft Hackle
    • Fly Patterns
    • RRTU Class Recipes
    • NC General Hatch Charts
    • Fly Shops, Outfitters and Guides
    • Fly Fishing >
      • RRTU Reference Fly Tying >
        • Entomology Basics
        • More Entomology Basics
      • More Fly Fishing Basics
      • Fly Fishing Tips
      • Trout Fishing & Trout Fishing Stories
    • Fly Casting
    • History, Reading, References >
      • S. Appalachian & Smoky Mtn History >
        • Archive History >
          • Archive History
          • FORR Campaign >
            • FORR 2020
    • Calendar Copy
  • RRTU Store

Rod Building - Graphite

John Benbow, Steve Craig, Nick Mermigas and many others within the Chapter build their own graphite fly rods by starting with a graphite blank and shopping for the components they prefer to have in their personal custom built fly rod.
Fritz...



Rod Building - Bamboo

Richard Teeter, TIm Wilhelm and others within the Chapter have been building "cane rods" for a number of years. 

Tim Wilhelm is one of our resident experts on building a bamboo fly rod. We are looking foward to learning more from Tim on this webpage.
Tim...
 (from) The Rod Project 08.12

It should be simple. The Sir D is a 7 foot rod so each section would be 3 ½ foot long (42 inches). A culm of bamboo is 12 foot long so cut it in half and let’s get on with it. Well it’s not that simple. If you have spent any time looking at bamboo you know that every so often there is a node and nodes aren’t evenly spaced on a culm. They may be 10 to 12 inches apart at the butt or bottom end of the culm and 14 to 17 inches apart at the tip end. In a bundle of 20 culms, it is very possible that you won’t find any 2 culms that have the same node spacing. Nodes are weak spots and the rule of thumb is you don’t want to have one within 5 inches of the tip or the ferrule. You also want to stagger them to prevent any two adjacent strips from having nodes at the same location. There are a number of staggering options but the most common are 2 x 2 x 2 and 3 x 3. In a 2 x 2 x 2 stagger nodes are arranged so that two nodes are placed on strips on opposite sides of the rod then a couple inches away you’ll have 2 more nodes and then the last 2 are beyond that. Sketch #1 should give you an idea of how that is done. So staggering the nodes causes waste and a 2 x 2 x 2 that has the nodes spaced at 3 inches means you have to start with strips that are 6 inches longer than what you need. But that’s not all you need a little bit of excess at either end to give you something to hang on to and to allow for areas. Our 42 inch strip is now 50 inches with the addition of 6 inches for node spacing and 2 extra inches (leeway) as insurance so we need to find a culm that will work the best when cut like the culm as shown in Sketch #2. It really is a case of measure twice, cut once at this point but by starting with a 2 x 2 x 2 spacing you can switch to 3 x 3 if your strips are too short if you find yourself with strips that are too short.

 - Tim Wilhelm
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Rocky River Chapter of Trout Unlimited (c) 2014

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